MG
The Classic Marque

Whilst replacing the diff pinion oil seal I noticed one of the rear wheel bearings had a stiff spot. I removed it and cleaned it with boiling water and a dish washer tablet (in an old pan not the dishwasher). I have found this gets bearings perfectly clean and they dry almost immediately. After a spray of WD40 I could still feel the tight spot and the bearing rattled when shaken. The one from the ...

My understanding is that the unboosted dual systems need to be centralised after bleeding by redoing the opposite side to the last one done until the light just goes out. For boosted dual systems partially unscrew the switch and that allows the shuttle to self-centralise during bleeding.

Does the shuttle block the flow to the side that has lost pressure? If so I don't know how you would...

True Arie. My own fault, but without a battery , , , , ☹️

And led astray by a pretty little thing in pale blue.

If only youve driven the Austin Sprite once in a while you then wouldnt need to get engine out now.... ;)

Tom

Taking the shuttle piston out is dangerous---doing that connects both circuits together---If you have a failure like a blown hose you will lose ALL brakes with the shuttle piston removed.---

Best action to take is--Remove the switch-get a small screwdriver down in the hole the switch came out of and push the shuttle piston back to the centre so that the deepest part of the gr...

I am having trouble bleeding the rear brakes after replacement of the shoes. After some reading, I checked the P.D.W.A. and found that the switch itself is shorted and the shuttle "O" ring(s) are leaking. John Twist say just put in a short bolt to stop the leak and forget about it. Now the question; What happens to the shuttle? Does it need to be removed? If it is blocking the rear brake line...

Great point Steve. If the regulator is stuck so full charge, something could fry. Again, start with fully charged battery, if the battery is really run down it could correctly charge at 20 for a while. Fully pegged definitely would be an issue. Try cracking the gas cap open, if you have it too well sealed pump could be sucking and making a vacuum. George

I wouldn't drive the car if the ammeter is pegged. It's asking for burned wires. Try cleaning the points in the control box and see if that fixes it. If not then it will need to be calibrated. It can also do damage to ignition parts. A friend with a TC just had a similar issue with overcharging at 17 volts and the symptoms were as you describe.

A failing coil will typically misfire at highe...

Jan, I've just been reading the WSM, which is what I followed pre internet days. And although not quite explicit the implication is that the bearing cap does need to be removed. As Dave said. So my faulty memory. Sorry!

Try a new coil, type that does not require external ballast resistor. Amazing one that old works at all, and may well fail when warms up. Must have new red colored rotor. Many condenser failures too. Make sure the battery is fully charged. If still showing a 20A charge, the regulator needs adjusting. Clean the points in it as well. George